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Thread: Hondata doesnt work with obd2?

  1. #1
    Inactive Member Lokar's Avatar
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    Red face

    I was dead set on getting the hondata stage three (because of the two step) and when I looked into it, I found out that I would have to change everything over to obd1. That kinda sucks. Then I started looking into the aem, they told me it would replace my factory comp and everything would plug right in. And it comes with a base program for the car, etc. etc. Now I am trying to justify which is better. Hondata is well known tried and true. and it was cheaper was my selling point. Well, after you add everything up, it will cost more than the aem. Plus the aem has everything and more as the hondata. The only negative I can find is the lack of experienced users for the aem system. Jim, I didnt ask when I talked to you earlier, are you able to tune on that system at all? And will it accept the wideband? If anyone has any input please let me hear it. I am in a debate with myself, and its like two idiots arguing (whats the point if neither one knows anything?) [img]tongue.gif[/img]

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    Inactive Member Max Psi GSR's Avatar
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    Im sorry, but i dont understand why people go out and buy standalones for Honda's that are only making 250-ish or below horsepower? I mean, is it really worth it? So you got an FMU, big deal, enough tuning can be done on that. Maybe im biased, but my God. If someone told me i needed a standalone to get 250whp out of my car, id sell the entire setup. For higher hp applications, i can understand however.....

    [img]graemlins/thumbs_down.gif[/img]

  3. #3
    Inactive Member Lokar's Avatar
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    Well, I am kinda new to the honda stuff, and it seems like that is the general consensus, to get a stand alone. I am not convinced that I need it either. I just want my car to run right. But I have been told that you can actually make some improvements with one. Also, not that it is much different, but I am running the JRSC with the 8lb. pulley and a 70 shot of nitrous. Before I put on the JRSC I had a dyno run at 225 whp. So, I am hoping for 300whp when I am done. not sure if I will make it.

  4. #4
    Inactive Member BoostedEX's Avatar
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    Question

    I thought the only thing you need to convert to obd1 is a p28 ecu and the wiring harness Hondata sells.... is there anything else??

    Lokar: You mean you are running 8 lbs of boost AND a 70 shot right now?!?!?!? I think that setup would easily create 300 whp!

  5. #5
    Inactive Member SuperTeg's Avatar
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    I am very interested in your settup. Please give up the details of the nitrous and the JRSC. Not that it would be complicated, but I would like to hear it from someone who's done it. Please list your mods and how you have the nitrous set up.
    Thanks

  6. #6
    Inactive Member grand600's Avatar
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    Kevin Jim will give you the correct answer!!!!! From me knowledge the hondata will work better because people know how to tune it(and make it right!). I am not saying the AEM PMS is bad, Just very hard to tune. there are many people on here that have had much success with HONDATA. It will be the next MOD to my car for sure. It has even been proven to make 7whp on a stock honda engine w/no mods!!! Again Jim will make your car have awesome power on boost and you will be very happy with it. I think you and I need to take a road trip to AL!!!!!

  7. #7
    Inactive Member Lokar's Avatar
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    Well, I talked to jim and he was very helpful. I talked to him about buying the hondata from him and having him tune it. Like I said, I was dead set, but then the obd1 thing came up. Its just a cable, but the guy said you loose a bunch of things. Not sure what. Anyway, I think that if jim can tune on the hondata, he can probably tune on the aem. (???) I really dont know what all is involved. So I did talk to him, please dont think I am ignoring your advise, I think this board is the best kept secret ever. Jim gave me some pointers on what to look for and I tried last night, I didnt have my volt meter so I couldnt set my tps, but I did rule out the iac. When I get that stupid thing running I will swing by. Oh, and good news, they sent my wheels out yesterday!!!!!!!

  8. #8
    Inactive Member Lokar's Avatar
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    superteg,
    My set up is actually kinda simple. I am running the new NOS nozzle system. If you are not familiar with that, it is where the fuel injectors actually plug into the nitrous nozzle, and then right into the block. I had to actually modify the JR manifold for the clearance. Anyway, I had the nitrous on before the JRSC and Holley brought it in house to test. They started with a 50 shot set of pills, put it on the dyno and ran it. It ran rich so they added nitrous until it was running perfect and that came out to a 70 shot. My base line Hp at the wheels was 167 and with the NOS it was 225. So thats the nitrous. Then I added a Holley Dry cell battery, Lazer Shot plug wires, upped all the bat cable sizes, put in a bottle heater, a crap load of guages and some custom brackets to mount everything. Then I added the JRSC, the 8lb pulley, the map mod, the btc, and now I am looking into the computer side of things. I will try to post some pictures of my setup. I have a sony imagestation account, does anyone know how to post the pics on here?

    Oh, I also have some other things done to the car, but I will go into that later.

  9. #9
    Inactive Member SuperTeg's Avatar
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    me want pics, me want pics! Your settup sounds pretty cool. I would think that for the aspect of cooling the charger you would put the NOS before the blower, but instead it is after. Oh well as long as the air going in is cooled, I guess it works. What is the cost of your NOS settup and how well does it run with the JRSC. I bet is hauls butt!

  10. #10
    Inactive Member BurntGSR's Avatar
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    Peope buy stand alones for more than peak power. Many hack jobs can create the right A/F at peak power but the stand alones can give you much more. We're talking stock driveability, more power sooner and along the power band (depending on what standalone). I don't think stand alone value should be placed on peak power but then again I personal appreciate the added benefits. I'll be going with the AEM (it's in the mail as we speak) standlone on my Supra.

    <BLOCKQUOTE><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#333333" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" bgcolor="#FF9900"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor="#DDDDDD"><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Max Psi GSR:
    Im sorry, but i dont understand why people go out and buy standalones for Honda's that are only making 250-ish or below horsepower? I mean, is it really worth it? So you got an FMU, big deal, enough tuning can be done on that. Maybe im biased, but my God. If someone told me i needed a standalone to get 250whp out of my car, id sell the entire setup. For higher hp applications, i can understand however.....

    [img]graemlins/thumbs_down.gif[/img]
    </font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>

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